The direct route home.

The next day we phoned Beaurepaires at lunch time – 'no rim today, and it might not be tomorrow, it could be Friday'.

Aaargh! Another night in Karratha. The next day we rang again,just in case, but still no rim. 

 

Yet another night in Karratha.

 Friday morning we fretted for a couple of hours and then rang Beaurepaires – still no rim. But it was in Karratha – somewhere. The lovely manager, Fiona, was as frustrated as we were and sent one of the fitters around to the freight depot to try and find the rim and bring it back.

We phoned her back just after lunch and success!!! they had found the rim, fitted a tyre (with plenty of tread on it) and we were ready to roll.

We drove there and were more than happy to pay $51 freight, then we were back 'on the road again'.

We drove out of town, along the familiar road, past the lay-by where we'd stopped on Sunday,

5 days ago and continued on down the North West Coastal Highway.

We stopped for the night at the Nanutarra Roadhouse, where they have a small caravan park.

As this was just a quick overnight stop, and the temperature is far more pleasant than it was in the Kimberley, we opted for an unpowered site. The first girl quoted $35 for two people, I double checked and was about to ask how much a powered site was when someone else came to the counter from the kitchen and overhearing our conversation, corrected the girl and told me an unpowered site would be $10 per person, so only $20. I checked in.

We were parked on the edge of the camping area, overlooking a paddock which lead down to the Ashburton River. Along with most places along the highway, we shared the space with several cattle.

We walked over to the road house for dinner before having another early night. That interlude gave us some unexpected humour – I'd ordered the 'special', lasagne, chips and salad. A young girl brought out a plate of just chips and placed it in front of me.

'And the lasagne?' I asked.

'Yes, salad over there; she replied pointing at the salad bar.

I asked again, looking over at the counter, where the young (Danish backpacker) who had taken my order was indicating that he would deal with it.

I was happy to wait and let him sort it out when an older staff member came out of the kitchen, took my plate away, saying, 'Sorry'. She then went over to the servery and dished up a huge portion of lasagne.

It was just like a Fawlty Towers sketch, we both almost expected the older lady to say, 'She's from Barcelona'. As well as giving us some light relief it very good grub.

Considering it was a road house, the place was quiet overnight and we slept well.

The next morning we were the last to leave the camp ground, getting on the road by 9.20am.

We continued our leisurely pace down the highway, stopping for lunch at the Minilya roadhouse.
We crested a hill and were suddenly in what could only be described as an area of desertification. Quite a desolate, dry area. It reminded me of areas of Mali seen on the African Dakkar Rallies.

 

We travelled through the longest road works that we've EVER come across, it must have gone on for over 50kms. 
The termite mounds in this area were once again, the 'blobby' type with some resembling the children's movie character Big Hero 6.

 

The 'detour' was a dirt road along side, right next to, the highway. It was in good condition, but was soft, red dirt. The speed limit on this side road was posted as 60kmph. But this meant nothing to the trucks carrying the gravel to the road works.

When we stopped we for lunch I was surprised to see just how much red dust there was on the side of the van, all along the sides, up to the windows. Some caravan owners are quite fanatical about keeping their vans spotlessly clean – they wouldn't be pleased when they stopped for the night.

But if they were heading south, as we were, they would get help from above because as we approached Carnarvon it started to rain.

We drove down into the town centre and whilst Michael went off to buy the weekend newspapers I phoned around the caravan parks. The prices varied quite a bit but when we looked over them we decided that the Norwesta was offering the best deal. They offered a powered site for $34, but with a seniors card this dropped to $30.

As we checked in, it started to rain and the power went off for a few minutes but we were soon set up and settled in.

The rain came down heavily for a short time, and sure enough, at least two men were out in the rain with their brushes and cloths – cleaning their vans!!

The next morning we made an early start, getting on the road just after 8.30am.

The rain had stopped and we had a lovely quiet drive down the highway.

We stopped for a snack at the Wooramel Roadhouse and again at the Billabong Roadhouse.

Then we had a quick break at Galena Bridge before heading into Geraldton, and a visit to our friends, Mike and Judy. 
We were soon within sight of the lovely Chapman Valley as we neared Geraldton.

 
 

 

We certainly noticed the drop in temperature as the sun set, and for the first time in many weeks needed the duvet on the bed at night.

Monday morning we said Bye Bye to Mike and Judy and headed out of town, through Greenough, passed Dongara, onto the Indian Ocean Drive and HOME!!

We arrived home by 2pm and quickly unpacked most of the stuff, got the house back into action and

must admit we really, really enjoyed our comfy leather recliners in front of the large screen tv.

We had travelled a total of 11,297kms.

Spent $1,900 on fuel (average = $28.20/day)

$1,160 on accommodation (average $17.50/day).

We had a brilliant time.

It's good to travel, and it's good to be home – we are SOOO lucky to have both options.

So, until the next trip – a Bientot.

Tyred out in Karratha

So we ticked off the items on our 'must do' list, time to commence the long slow journey along the coast back down to Perth.

We left Derby thinking about our options for the night - we could head into Broome and pay for an expensive caravan site or camp a few kms out of Broome and head into the town for a day's sightseeing.

We decided on the latter option, and stopped at the Roebuck Plains Roadhouse, booking in for 2 nights.

That night we went over to the roadhouse for a meal, Panfried Barramundi with salad and chips x2.

The next morning we headed down the road into Broome, only 40kms.

We stopped at the information centre and learnt that there was nothing special happening in town at the moment, we were a week early for the 'staircase to the moon', which would be visible at the weekend; This phenomenon occurs in the northern region of WA when the full moon reflects on the mud flats at an extremely low tide.

We drove out to the 'town beach' area and checked out the museum.

A very nice little affair with some lovely little exhibits and a good history of all aspects of the town. 

After the museum we drove into town and parked near the Paspaley shopping centre on the edge of China Town.

We walked around the streets and shops and grabbed a quick bite to eat before heading out to Cable Beach.

We walked along the paths in park overlooking the beach and paused to thank Lord McAlpine for his foresight in the 1970s, opening up Broome to become what it is today.

Then it was time to head back out to the caravan park at the roadhouse.

The next morning we had our usual slow start and were delighted and amazed to see this Frill-Necked Lizard also watching the other campers pack up.

      

Then we too were back on the road, now heading south.

We stopped early in the day, around midday at a 24 hr rest area, Stanley. We set up next to a shelter and table and relaxed watching others roll in. By early evening there were quite a few vans, caravans and tents spread around.

The next day, we carried on southwards.

We got fuel at the Sandfire Roadhouse before turning off the main road to travel about 9kms along a gravel road down to Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. We pulled up sharp at the entrance to read all the rules and were astounded to see that the rate was $49 a night.

We drove in to see how good it was for that price – it was crowded, and was what appeared to basically be, a farm paddock. There was a queue of 4WDs and caravans waiting at the reception, we did a U turn and drove back down the dirt road to the highway.

We stopped at the next 24 hr rest area, on the DeGrey River. A huge area with plenty of room for everyone. Some hardy souls headed off down some steep dirt tracks to camp down by the river but we settled in among a few other motorhomes up on the flat level ground.

The local cattle wandered down through the caravans and motorhomes in the early evening to make their way down to the river for a drink.

The next morning we continued on, driving into Port Hedland and the information centre.

We had heard that there was an option to camp at the Turf Club, but this year this is only available when the caravan parks are full or if you have an oversized rig or pets. We had neither and also there's a race meeting this afternoon. The caravan parks are our options in town. The one in Port Hedland is now part of the Big 4 chain and charges $49 a site. The Black Rock in South Hedland only charges $35 so no prizes for guessing which one we chose.

We stopped at the Don Rhodes Mining Museum on the main road and then went over to South Hedland.

We had just set up when who should walk by? Terry from Kununurra and the Horizontal Falls trip.

They were having a little break in Hedland before heading down the inland road through Newman, to Perth and beyond.

We had a little rest and then decided to go for a swim. There was no one else around the pool despite the heat and one dip of the toe into the water and we realised why…. The water was freezing.

We had got this far so both braved it and did a quick couple of lengths, before getting out to warm up.

The next morning we were on the road by 9.30 and stopped for a morning coffee near Whim Creek.

We turned into Roebourne and stopped at the information centre which is housed in the Old Gaol.

We paid the little admission fee and had a look around.

 The Roebourne lockup was proclaimed a gaol in 1884. It was quite depressing to see the old photos of the aboriginal inmates, with their neck chains and leg shackles.

Before we left the building I went to the ladies toilet and found it poignant that as I sat on the toilet, next to my left ankle, in the wall, was a ring – to attach the chain.

Then we drove out of town, out the the coastal 'ghost town' of Cossack.

We had both always wanted to visit Cossack since the 1970s when we was a programme about the town. It was just an abandoned town then, now it has been officially declared an 'Historic Town' with interpretive walks and some restored buildings. 

 

We parked on the old wharf and had lunch then went on a short drive around the old streets. We went out to the Japanese cemetery past the old Chinese market garden lots and the Malay Section.

Then we drove up to the lookout before leaving Cossack and returning to Roebourne and the main road south.

We were intending on staying at another 24hr rest area or a roadhouse for the next couple of nights, bypassing Karratha and heading on to Carnarvon. The best laid plans etc……..

About 45 kms south of Karratha we heard a very loud slapping noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Expecting to see a flat tyre we pulled over – no, all 4 tyres fully inflated.

So we drove on, after a short distance the noise started again. We stopped again and on close inspection I noticed that the rear left tyre had strips of rubber hanging off it on its innermost edge and could see the metal core of the tyre sticking up!!

Wondering where we could safely stop and change the wheel I spotted a little, square blue sign just ahead, that meant that there was a parking layby 1km up the road. Hoping that it was a bitumen sealed surface there, we crept along. It was a sealed flat surface so we were now safely off the road.

 

The spare wheel on the camper is stored underneath the back of the vehicle and the fitting is, quite frankly, a bugger. Neither of us could release the spare wheel. So, it was time to use the most valuable tool you can carry when travelling – the mobile phone.

We barely had a signal, just one bar if I faced a certain direction, but enough to call the RAC.

After just over an hour our help arrived, not in a fancy 4WD truck but a little red car. 

Anthony took an hour to finally release that spare from it's carrier and change the wheel.

This is the offending tyre - 

 Then we were heading back to Karratha for the night.

It was dark by the time we arrived and had to phone the after hours number to get someone to come to reception and check us in.

The next morning, luckily Monday, not on a weekend, we drove around to Beaurepaires Tyre Shop. They were extremely helpful, and we actually got a suitable tyre, that matched our spare, for $150. (The one that had disintegrated had cost over $300).

Soon we were rolling again, before leaving town we went to the shopping centre to have a look around, get a few items of food and then continue south.

As we walked back to the van, we both thought, 'that's funny, the van seems to be at an angle'.

The spare that had been fitted on the road side was as flat as a pancake. (Not the one just fitted by Beaurepaires.)

Out comes that valuable tool again, this time I phoned Beaurepaires directly and they sent out their truck to put air in the tyre so that we could drive back to them to see what went wrong.

The tyre really didn't hold much air so we drove very slowly, with the truck following, and made it just as the tyre started to deflate again.

The problem was not with the rubber this time – the actual rim had a long crack in it.

A disaster waiting to happen, what could have happened if that crack had caused the tyre to burst, either when under the vehicle in the carrier, or just now when on the road, is not something that we wanted to think about.

But that left us without a spare wheel altogether. The motorhome vehicle is a Fiat, the dealer is in Perth, Karratha is 1,600kms north of Perth. 

Nothing to do but order a rim, get it freighted up to Beaurepaires and wait. The estimated delivery time was Wednesday afternoon.

So we went back to the caravan park, extended our stay until Thursday and waited.

All over the caravan park people were 'waiting'. One couple with a camper trailer, had no vehicle - it was in the garage. Another couple with a caravan were waiting to find out how serious their gearbox problem was on their big Ford F150 (it wouldn't get out of 'park'), someone else was trying to get a replacement rear window for their tow vehicle and another couple had to wait whilst Telstra sorted out their phone problems. The park seemed to be the place to 'wait' in Karratha.

This is where we are now.

We've made the decision to head directly home without detours to Exmouth, Coral Bay, Monkey Mia and other places. We will go home and thoroughly check all tyres and rims. We can always 'do' this area another time, we've done the distant places and the NT so feel okay to call it a day.

In the meantime there is still the adventure of the drive from Karratha to home so there will be one more post to do. We just have to pick up the new rim and spare tyre – tomorrow?!?

Horizontal Falls - pctures speak louder than words

It was here - THE day – our day trip to the Horizontal Falls.

The day dawned grey and overcast with a forecast of only 28 degrees.

We were picked up outside the caravan park just after 8.15 and were surprised to see a couple of friendly faces, Terry and Coral, who had been parked next to us at the caravan park in Kununurra.

There were 6 others on the trip, 10 of us in total.

As we turned into the airport I spotted 2 pairs of Brolgas on the edge of the runway.

There was no check in, no security, just wait for the plane to be refuelled and we were then escorted onto the runway by the pilot. Bags were stowed in the 'floats' and then we boarded according to the pilots seating plan, no front seat for Michael this time. But as there were only 10 of us we nearly all got a window seat.

We took off and flew over the tidal flats, such amazing images in the sand.

Then we were over Talbot Bay and our first sight of the Horizontal Falls.

We had a beautiful smooth landing in the Bay and then 'taxied' around to the moored boats.

It had started to rain but certainly not enough to dampen anyone's enthusiasm or enjoyment. After a brief discussion the crew decided that we should go now on our first trip through the Falls as the tide was rising quickly.

It was low tide and the second Falls can only be passed through when the tide is low. You can see the tide line in the photos.

We boarded, grabbing front row seats and we were off.

The rain drops stung our faces but we really didn't care.

Then we reached the Falls.......

slowed down, lined up....

and then raced through! WOW! 

And this was the start – plenty more to come.

We made about 4 passes through the first falls and then moved on to the second falls.

A much narrower gap.

Same procedure, slow....

line up....

rev up and go.

Fantastic!

Then to wind down we were taken on a tour around some of the bays and inlets 

                                                 

Back at the base the two youngest amongst us donned their swimsuits and got into the diving cage whilst a young staff member starting to feed the visiting sharks.

The sharks were 'our pets', they know to appear everyday when they sense the vibrations of people around the feeding cage.

They are Tawny Nurse Sharks and although they don't have huge teeth they could still 'rasp' your skin off.

Alongside the sharks there were Batfish and Yellow Trevally Fish coming in for a feed.

Then it was our time to eat. A small but beautifully prepared lunch of crispy skinned grilled wild Barramundi, green salad, pasta salad and bread rolls. (10 out of 10.)

There were 2 couples who opted to take a 10 minute helicopter ride out over the Falls. ($100pp).

(We have been 'warned off' riding in a Robinson helicopter, by our helicopter pilot friend so declined this trip.)

Then, as the tide had risen, it was time to head back out on the boat.

The tide was indeed high.

 

The trip through the first falls was doubly fantastic.

We couldn't safely pass through the second falls but our amazing driver (pilot) reversed up to the gap, kept the boat revving at 7 or 8 knots which held our position against the tide.

The water force was truly incredible.

This trip is right up there as equal first on the best so far (equal with the kangaroo sanctuary in Alice).

Then we had to leave.

We took another trip along the bays and inlets, sailing over the tops of the mangroves and were able to travel further up the inlets and gorges.

We were both thrilled by the adventure and although it was 4 months early Michael was very happy with his birthday present.

All too soon we were back at base, waiting for the plane to return to collect us.

The rain continued as we flew back to Derby, flying over a Barramundi farm

 and I noticed that our pilot was using his phone to take quite a few photos as we travelled over the clouds. When we landed he explained that in the 5 years that he'd been flying this route he had never seen those formations before.

We were picked up by the shuttle bus and dropped back at the caravan park around 3.15pm.

One of the best days ever – if you only ever do one thing in the NW of WA, you really should do this. An amazing experience.