It was time to continue north, up to the end of the Stuart Highway – Darwin.
It was still not 'The Dry'.
When we had been up to Darwin in March last year, on the Ghan, we were told that we were a month early. We should be there later, in the dry, so now here we are a year and 6 weeks later – and it's still 'the wet'. The Dry is late this year, just our luck.
We paused for a quick lunch break in the car park of the Adelaide River Railway History park. This did look a bit more well used than Pine Creek and there were more exhibits, in better condition, but we decided against paying the $5 for a walk around in the heat.
(Missing the sign to turn off to the WW11 War Cemetery graves). We drove on to Darwin.
Once in the city limits we set the GPS and were soon outside our friend's house.
We managed to park under a large tree on his rear driveway and were soon sitting inside with the fans blowing catching up on gossip, and we were given the keys to one of their cars, so that we could easily get around the city.
One subject discussed was the swimming hole at Bitter Springs. Imagine our horror when they told us that on their last visit there they spotted a huge snake in the water next to them, and then spotted it's mate along side! They always swim at the Mataranka Thermal Pool now, and as we got over the shock we totally agreed with them.
That night we saw our first Cane Toad – spotted in the garden shortly before it met a large shovel.
There were also some beautiful Green Tree Frogs, they were very welcome in the garden.
The next morning we set off in our borrowed car. The first stop was a return visit to the wonderful Art Museum and Gallery. We didn't revisit 'Sweetheart' the crocodile or the Cyclone Tracey exhibit, we stopped at the Hermannsburg display – featuring a couple of Namatjira paintings and those beautiful pots that I so loved last time.
Then we looked at the things that we didn't get chance to see last time. There was an exhibition of art works by high school students – Wow, some amazingly talented youngsters around.
We ventured out of the air conditioning to have a quick look at the boats on display before deciding that it was time for a cold drink.
It was around 11.45 and the lunch menu looked good so we ordered an early lunch. A very good decision, it was fresh, tasty and reasonably priced.
Then we left the Art Gallery, and with the help of the GPS set off for the Military Museum.
This museum has received some excellent reviews regarding its Bombing of Darwin display. We paid our admission and went in. The first couple of rooms were well laid out, but as we moved around the museum I found a few of the explanatory notes were slightly contradictory with others in other rooms. Then we moved out into the open and the vehicle displays. I suppose that they might have intended to give the appearance of vehicles abandoned in the jungle, well all that it looked like was that they have found some rusty vehicles and put them out to rust further. They were certainly doing that.
It did not live up to the expectations of a good museum. Further rooms did not impress either, in fact I found myself comparing the place, unfavourably, with the Military Museum in Merredin, WA. Only 2 out of 10 rooms stood up, and that is the score we'd give it too – 2 out of 10.
Certainly NOT worth the admission price, (full admission $18), unless you absolutely must see about the Bombing of Darwin, but that has been well covered in books, tv programmes and DVDs so our advice is 'Don't bother, with the Military Museum'.
We drove into the city centre and strolled down the Mall before heading back 'home'.
We all went down to the Waterfront that evening for a Mexican meal, and took a stroll along the water, before driving home.
The next day we went with our friend to the old Qantas Hangar, where the local car enthusiasts restore, store and display their cars.
A lovely set up, and a great idea where like minds can get together and share know how, especially in a city where there may only be one enthusiast of a particular marque. I imagine that it's hard to form a car club if you're the only one.
The Hangar was a short walk from the Parap Markets so we left the cars there and walked over.
There were the usual art stalls, jewellery stalls and more than anything – food stalls. It was too early to eat but we did enjoy a freshly made fruit Lassi. Freshly diced fruit, ice, yoghurt – lovely.
Our friend had to take the girls to dance classes so we left them and after another stroll around the market walked back to the car. We set the GPS and set out to the Aviation Heritage Museum (with some trepidation, after the poor Military Museum).
The first pleasant surprise was the $10 admission and it got better after that. It was fantastic. Well preserved, well displayed exhibits.
They even had a B52 inside the hangar, what a beautiful beast that is.
We were very happy with this museum and not only recommend it, we would go again.
There was no cafe at the museum, so after a welcome cold drink we set off for a shopping centre and food court.
Finally, at this museum, we had found a good street map of Darwin and were able to navigate without the GPS.
The shopping mall was as you'd expect at lunch time on a Saturday – busy.
We enjoyed our Thai meal and then wandered around. We found the Optus store and Michael checked his pre paid phone recharge date etc. But we didn't actually buy anything, plenty of time for that back in Perth.
As we were sitting around having another lovely evening dining Al Fresco we realised that we had seen all that we came to Darwin to see.
We were getting exhausted by the unrelenting humidity – Going Troppo.
That evening there were hundreds of dragonflies around, apparently a sign that 'the dry' is about to start, at last.
So, although loving the time with friends – they have their jobs to get on with, we decided to leave the next morning.
So the next day, mid morning we did just that – we left Darwin.
We drove back down the Stuart Highway and turned left for Humpty Doo (what a great name) and the Arnhem Highway to Jabiru through Kakadu National Park.
We were somewhat confused over whether or not we needed to purchase a pass to enter the National Park. The pass was $40 pp ($30 concession) and was valid for 5 days. As we only intended to drive along the main highway, in one day, would we need this pass?
We stopped at the ranger station, at Windows on the Wetlands, and asked the question. This question has apparently been asked frequently and Head Office has not given a clear reply. It seems that if we intend to 'enjoy' ANY part of the park – by looking out of the window, we are deemed to need a pass. Presumably if we were to drive along with our eyes shut, we wouldn't need a pass!!
Unable to give assurances that we would not look out of the window, and the fact that the weather was already more humid than Darwin city we decided to cut our losses, and headed back through Humpty Doo, to the Stuart Highway where we turned south and retraced our drive, intending to spend the night back in Pine Creek.
(IF we return to Kakadu we MUST do it in the dry, when we will be more comfortable and more likely to spend more than one day in the area. But to be honest that is now way down the list of things to do.)
We corrected our oversight and paid a visit to the WWII Cemetery in Adelaide River. What a lovely, peaceful spot. It was Anzac Day the next day and the graves and gardens were looking immaculate ready for the dawn service.
We returned to the highway and headed south for Pine Creek.
In the distance we noticed that the horizon was quite hazy, surely it's not rain..No it's smoke and it's getting thicker.
As we continued south we drove through some very smoky spots and as we got to the Pine Creek turn off and the smoke was still dense we decided to drive on. We didn't think that the smoke would clear enough for us to have a smoke free night's sleep.
We drove on back to Katherine.
In Katherine we filled up with diesel at a good discount price and then drove 9kms out of town, along the Victoria Highway. We had decided to avoid the larger, commercial caravan parks for a smaller, family run option. We were going to Manbullo Homestead caravan park, operating on a working farm.
This turned out to be 4kms off the Hwy – well at least there won't be any traffic noise.
The park looked okay and we checked in. There were plenty of shady spots.
In fairness I was told that the ablution block was being modernised but it seems that the owner was unaware exactly what the contractors were doing…..they had started on the Gents showers and toilets by removing all the doors! The ladies ablutions were still complete but really did have an abandoned feel.
There were a few paperback books in the laundry area and we were in need of some new reading material but these books all had the dusty, dirty feel of something found under the floorboards of an old house so we didn't exchange any of our books. There were a LOT of 'permanent' residents, with wire fencing around old caravans, to keep the dogs in, it didn't stop them growling and barking whenever anyone walked past.
It was not an exceptionally cheap park at $34 a night and we made a note to ask to look around first if unsure or the whole park is not visible from the reception / driveway.
The next morning we headed back to the Victoria Hwy and our journey westwards.
We stopped for a cuppa at a rest area where we got talking to a couple in a caravan who were travelling east, they recommended a little spot another 70kms along the road – Victoria River.
So we headed there.
The camping ground was behind the roadhouse, where someone obviously had a sense of humour - and was only $25 a night.
We were all set up in the shade, by lunchtime.
That night we had a lovely meal at the roadhouse and decided to stay another night.
The next day we just relaxed and enjoyed the scenery and the birdlife. There was even a Bower bird or two. One came to check out what we'd left lying around outside whilst we went in for lunch.
Later in the afternoon there were lots of little wallabies around the park too.
We didn't go for a walk through the rushes down to the river, we walked along the road, over the bridge.
There only needs to be a hint about a crocodile and we're very, very wary.
Then it was time to continue westwards and we were amazed at the wonderful scenery along the road. We saw a large herd of cattle with 5 or 6 stockmen on horses .
There were lots and lots of Kites flying over the road and in the paddocks. There were flocks of budgerigars and finches and we even saw a pair of Brolgas on the edge of a creek.
There was a changing landscape too, wetlands giving way to rocky outcrops and mountain ranges.
Then we were at the border with Western Australia. Back in the west!!
Next stop is Kununurra.
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